Overview
Management Options
Spring is when many gardeners and homeowners first encounter skunk problems. First, it helps to understand why skunks are coming into your yard and what they are doing, aside from just “digging up the lawn.” Usually, skunks are searching for and have found, reliable food sources, especially insects (e.g., earthworms; large, white Japanese beetle grubs). As long as reliable food is available, skunks and other animals will continue to utilize it. Although you may be successful in removing a skunk doing damage, in a short time, another likely will arrive to replace it. Thus, permanent elimination of skunk problems may not be possible.
Techniques used to manage skunk conflicts are broken into 3 major categories: husbandry methods, non-lethal methods, and lethal methods. These categories are consistent with the hierarchical design that characterizes most vertebrate integrated pest management (VIPM) programs. Under an VIPM program, you first must identify the conflict and evaluate its seriousness, then you review and evaluate the options that are available to relieve or permanently solve that conflict. Then, based on the outcome of that assessment, you select and apply the management strategies appropriate to the need, starting first with the simple, inexpensive, and less invasive techniques, but moving on to the more complex, expensive, or time demanding options where need dictates. A general rule of thumb of an VIPM approach: lethal options generally are viewed as methods of last resort, ones used only when all other methods prove ineffective. Therefore, in this section, we present a review of options that follow the IPM hierarchical approach.
Husbandry Methods
The most effective solution to managing skunk problems is to make your lawn/landscape unattractive to skunks by eliminating protective cover, potential sites used for denning, and food sources (e.g., accessible pet food dishes, uncovered garbage cans, unprotected compost piles). Look beneath raised decks and porches to see if you can find burrow openings there. These are favorite denning locations for skunks and groundhogs, particularly beneath structures having lattice-work or heavy landscaping covering the perimeter–they provide perfect cover and protection from predators.
- If you find a burrow and it appears fresh, you can check on the occupants by putting down a very thin sprinkling of baking flour around the opening or along any access points to the den. If it is occupied, you can identify the occupant by the tracks left in the flour (using guidebooks or online sources).
Non-lethal Methods
Fencing is a non-lethal option, but homeowners sometimes object to its use for aesthetic reasons or may not know how to erect a fence properly. Skunks are efficient diggers and readily will dig under an improperly installed fence in a matter of minutes. Some guidelines can help increase the effectiveness of fencing, these include:
- Bury fencing 6 to 8 inches and extending an “L” out away from the base of the fence an additional 8 to 10 inches.
- Another effective option is to erect a single strand of electric fencing, or a “hot wire,” at the base of a conventional fence, approximately 3 to 4 inches above the ground. When the animal approaches the fence to dig at its base and comes in contact with the electrified wire, the animal receives an unpleasant, but harmless, shock on its nose.
- This experience often is sufficient to prevent further attempts by the animal.
- Use of electrified fence material is not recommended in areas where small children have free access to it
- Any application of electrified materials must have clearly posted warnings alerting people to its presence and use.
The only chemical deterrent currently registered (Environmental Protection Agency standards) for use on skunks is the sodium nitrate gas cartridge, used to treat burrows. Because they are considered a combustible device, never use a gas cartridge in burrows located beneath or immediately adjacent to a building or in areas dominated by heavy, dry vegetation to avoid a potential for fire. According to current EPA guidelines, naphthalene (the active ingredient in mothballs) is not registered for use as a repellent on skunks, although many people use and continue to recommend it. However, naphthalene is ineffective in outdoor applications as a repellent and should not be recommended as such.
Lethal Methods
Live-trapping can be effective, but rarely will provide a permanent solution to problems caused by skunks because other animals will be drawn to the food source. Also, you should be prepared to trap on a regular basis. State trapping regulations stipulate that traps must be checked at least once every 24 hours and any animals caught must be dispatched within that time period. For skunks:
- A 10 inch x 10 inch x 32 inch cage trap (with a single operating door, not a two-door trap) is needed.
- For bait: try a can of cat food (fish type). Sardines work best, but often attract free-roaming cats in the neighborhood before a skunk has opportunity to investigate.
- Cover the trap with burlap, cloth, a plastic garbage bag, or other material before positioning the trap. Cover all but the last 3 to 4 inches of the top near the door. This will help calm the captured animal and also will provide some protection against being sprayed.
The relocation of nuisance animals in Virginia is illegal without authorized permit from the Department of Game and Inland Fisheries. Thus, homeowners are not allowed to transport any wild animal from their property. Any nuisance animal caught must be released at the site of capture or humanely put to death. Relocation is not as safe and humane as people believe. In particular:
- A high proportion of relocated animals perish during encounters with predators, motor vehicles, and other individuals of the same species as the displaced individual tries to return to its “home” territory.
- People can unknowingly contribute to the spread of infectious diseases (e.g., rabies, distemper, parvovirus) by moving animals from contaminated to uninfected areas.
- Homeowners can expose themselves to diseases and are often bitten or scratched when attempting to relocate nuisance animals.
Legal Considerations
In Virginia it is illegal to
- Destroy or molest the dens or young of a skunk. 29.1-521
- Set a trap where it would be likely to injure persons, dogs, stock or fowl. 29.1-521
- Not visit all traps once each day and remove all animals caught. 29.1-521
- Transport, release, or relocate a skunk anywhere other than the property it was caught on. 4VAC15-30-50
- Poison any animal (including skunk) other than rats and mice on your property. 4VAC15-40-50
In Virginia both the spotted and striped skunk are considered fur-bearer species typically meaning that fur-bearers can only be taken during a set trapping season. However 4VAC15-220-10 states that there is a continuous open season on striped skunks. The state code defines “open season” as that period of time fixed by the Board during which wild animals, wild birds and fish may be taken, captured, killed, pursued, trapped or possessed (29.1-100). A spotted skunk may be take only if it is or about to cause depredation to a landowners property (4VAC15-220-20). As with all wildlife it is illegal to relocate skunks to any area other than the property it was caught on. A landowner should use lethal alternatives only after all non-lethal controls have been exhausted.
In Virginia it is legal to:
- Shoot skunks on your property outside of the trapping season, 29.1-517
- Take a striped skunk at any time of year, 4VAC15-220-10
- To kill a spotted skunk that is in the process of or about to cause damage to their property. 4VAC15-220-20